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date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 13:21:33 +0100,
group: uk.rec.climbing
back
Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
Hello World,
Does anyone know of any (fairly easy) multi-pitch bolted climbing in the
UK? I've done a spot of sport climbing in Spain (up to about 6a ish) and
some single-pitch trad in the UK. I'd like to do some multi-pitch stuff,
and given half a chance, would prefer to practice on something with
bolts to start off with, so I don't need to worry too much about
building a belay out of nuts, cams, old bits of string, bottle tops,
rubber bands etc.
I'd ask on the ukclimbing.com forums, but would get jumped on for not
doing it in the correct style, being a dreadful newbie, having the wrong
coloured trousers, etc. etc.
Ta,
nr.
date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 13:21:33 +0100
author: none neil\@(none)
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
In message <4a290dce$0$519$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk>
none <""neil\"@(none)"> wrote:
> Hello World,
>
> Does anyone know of any (fairly easy) multi-pitch bolted climbing in
> the UK? I've done a spot of sport climbing in Spain (up to about 6a
> ish) and some single-pitch trad in the UK. I'd like to do some
> multi-pitch stuff, and given half a chance, would prefer to practice
> on something with bolts to start off with, so I don't need to worry
> too much about building a belay out of nuts, cams, old bits of
> string, bottle tops, rubber bands etc.
>
> I'd ask on the ukclimbing.com forums, but would get jumped on for not
> doing it in the correct style, being a dreadful newbie, having the wrong
> coloured trousers, etc. etc.
>
> Ta,
> nr.
In space no one can hear you scream!
Not many climbers around here these days so it's a bit of a vacuum and
you might not get many answers.
Most multi-pitch climbing in the UK is trad style so sooner or later if
you want some choice in your climbs you're going to have to make the
transition to placing your own gear. Most multi-pitch climbs in the
easier to middle grades tend to have belays that are easy to set up
(e.g. are not hanging belays).
Lots to choose from in Wales and the Lake District.
Mike
--
o/ \\ // || ,_ o Mike Clark, "An antibody engineer who also
<\__,\\ // __o || / /\, likes the mountains"
"> || _`\<,_ // \\ \> | Cambridge Climbing and Caving Club
` || (_)/ (_) // \\ \_ <URL:http://www.thecccc.org.uk/>
date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 17:33:39 +0100
author: Mike Clark
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
Mike Clark wrote:
> Not many climbers around here these days so it's a bit of a vacuum and
> you might not get many answers.
>
> Most multi-pitch climbing in the UK is trad style so sooner or later if
> you want some choice in your climbs you're going to have to make the
> transition to placing your own gear. Most multi-pitch climbs in the
> easier to middle grades tend to have belays that are easy to set up
> (e.g. are not hanging belays).
What he said. There's hardly anyone posting here anymore, and there isn't
really much good multi-pitch bolted sport climbing in the UK as far as I
know. In fact if you're operating below about 6b, there isn't a vast
amount of good single pitch sport climbing either.
Then again, I could be a bit out of date - I haven't done much in the slate
quarries or the SW for a long time. (Well, I haven't done *much* ever, I
haven't done any recently.) If you (the OP) want to know more, I think
you're going to have to take your chances on UKC. Or failing that, take a
look to see if someone else has already done it for you. For example:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=356540&v=1#x5209185
hth
Sean
date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 10:09:09 +0100
author: Sean
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
Sean wrote:
> Mike Clark wrote:
>
>> Not many climbers around here these days so it's a bit of a vacuum and
>> you might not get many answers.
>>
>> Most multi-pitch climbing in the UK is trad style so sooner or later if
>> you want some choice in your climbs you're going to have to make the
>> transition to placing your own gear. Most multi-pitch climbs in the
>> easier to middle grades tend to have belays that are easy to set up
>> (e.g. are not hanging belays).
>
> What he said. There's hardly anyone posting here anymore, and there isn't
> really much good multi-pitch bolted sport climbing in the UK as far as I
> know. In fact if you're operating below about 6b, there isn't a vast
> amount of good single pitch sport climbing either.
Yup, after a (very) little bit of research, I've come to pretty much the
same conclusion. I guess I'd best get my eye in building trad belays.
Not that my climbing partner is likely to test any of them anyway, as
he's a more accomplished climber than me.
Shame this group isn't used so much - while webby forum thingies
definitely have their place, I do like usenet where appropriate. Hey ho.
Thanks chaps,
nr.
date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 12:11:10 +0100
author: nr
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
none <""neil\"@(none)"> wrote in news:4a290dce$0$519$5a6aecb4
@news.aaisp.net.uk:
> Hello World,
>
> Does anyone know of any (fairly easy) multi-pitch bolted climbing in the
> UK? I've done a spot of sport climbing in Spain (up to about 6a ish) and
> some single-pitch trad in the UK. I'd like to do some multi-pitch stuff,
> and given half a chance, would prefer to practice on something with
> bolts to start off with, so I don't need to worry too much about
> building a belay out of nuts, cams, old bits of string, bottle tops,
> rubber bands etc.
You probably know this, but just in case: 6a in Spain is not the same as 6a
in the UK.
--
Jeremy
R1200RT
date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 14:44:35 GMT
author: J?r?my
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
Jérémy wrote:
>
> You probably know this, but just in case: 6a in Spain is not the same as 6a
> in the UK.
Ah, yes - luckily we had a very helpful guide who translated into
roughly UK sport grades. And also pointed out helpfully the local
tradition of bolting the crags 'sportingly' :)
> Jeremy
> R1200RT
Hmmm - I wonder if there's any correlation between climbing and BMW
ownership. I'm on my second K100RS, and know of at least one other
climber here on a K1200S after a K1200RS
Ta,
nr.
date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 12:15:36 +0100
author: nr
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
nr wrote in news:4a420ad9$0$519$5a6aecb4
@news.aaisp.net.uk:
> Hmmm - I wonder if there's any correlation between climbing and BMW
> ownership. I'm on my second K100RS, and know of at least one other
> climber here on a K1200S after a K1200RS
There seem to be several climbers in uk.rec.motorcycles. Not all BMW owners
though.
--
Jeremy
R1200RT
date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 10:33:48 GMT
author: J?r?my
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
Jérémy wrote:
> nr wrote in news:4a420ad9$0$519$5a6aecb4
> @news.aaisp.net.uk:
>
>> Hmmm - I wonder if there's any correlation between climbing and BMW
>> ownership. I'm on my second K100RS, and know of at least one other
>> climber here on a K1200S after a K1200RS
>
> There seem to be several climbers in uk.rec.motorcycles. Not all BMW owners
> though.
He knows. He's met many of us.
--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org
date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 15:36:24 +0100
author: Eddie
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
Eddie wrote:
> Jérémy wrote:
>>
>> There seem to be several climbers in uk.rec.motorcycles. Not all BMW
>> owners though.
>
> He knows. He's met many of us.
>
Afternoon Eddie - didn't realise that you were still here :) Is Champ
still around here? I saw on UKRM yesterday that he's managed his first
indoor climb since the big accident - I'm dead impressed.
nr.
date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 15:59:11 +0100
author: nr
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
nr wrote:
> Hmmm - I wonder if there's any correlation between climbing and BMW
> ownership. I'm on my second K100RS, and know of at least one other
> climber here on a K1200S after a K1200RS
I dont read or post at urm,
date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 20:23:06 +0100
author: Sean
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
nr wrote:
>> You probably know this, but just in case: 6a in Spain is not the same as
>> 6a in the UK.
>
> Ah, yes - luckily we had a very helpful guide who translated into
> roughly UK sport grades. And also pointed out helpfully the local
> tradition of bolting the crags 'sportingly' :)
The 'sport grade' 6a should be comparable between the UK and Spain, as both
grades are, theoretically, French.
But traditional British grades consist of an 'adjectival' grade (Diff, V
Diff, Severe, Hard Severe etc. ... ) combined with a 'technical' grade (3c,
4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a ... ). The technical grade describes how hard
the hardest single move on the route (or each pitch) is, without regard to
anything other than technical difficulty of that one move. The adjectival
grade describes how hard the route as a whole is, taking account of how
sustained it is, how bold, loose rock, everything.
A move that warrants an english 'technical' grade of 6a should be
significantly harder than anything you'd find on a fr 6a sport route.
hth
Sx
date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 20:28:58 +0100
author: Sean
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
nr wrote:
> Hmmm - I wonder if there's any correlation between climbing and BMW
> ownership.
I'm a bit surprised - most of the BMW riders I see from day to day don't
look to be built for climbing. ;)
Ha. I can talk!
Sean
(Triumph Speed Triple - one of the 885 cafe racer style ones, lovely. If a
bit impractical, but sod it, its mostly just a toy anyway. :)
date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 20:35:01 +0100
author: Sean
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
nr wrote:
> Eddie wrote:
>> Jérémy wrote:
>
>>> There seem to be several climbers in uk.rec.motorcycles. Not all BMW
>>> owners though.
>>
>> He knows. He's met many of us.
>
> Afternoon Eddie - didn't realise that you were still here :)
Yes, I still hang around... haven't had much reason to post in here, as
I haven't been climbing for *ages*.
> Is Champ still around here?
I'm not sure; I think he pops in occasionally.
> I saw on UKRM yesterday that he's managed his first
> indoor climb since the big accident - I'm dead impressed.
Yeah, damn good going!
--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org
date: Fri, 26 Jun 2009 08:48:40 +0100
author: Eddie
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
Sean wrote:
> I dont read or post at urm,
Oops.. How did that half written post get away? Soz folks.
date: Fri, 26 Jun 2009 11:05:52 +0100
author: Sean
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Re: Multi-pitch bolted climbing in the UK
On Fri, 26 Jun 2009 08:48:40 +0100, Eddie wrote:
>nr wrote:
>> Eddie wrote:
>>> Jérémy wrote:
>>
>>>> There seem to be several climbers in uk.rec.motorcycles. Not all BMW
>>>> owners though.
>>>
>>> He knows. He's met many of us.
>>
>> Afternoon Eddie - didn't realise that you were still here :)
>
>Yes, I still hang around... haven't had much reason to post in here, as
>I haven't been climbing for *ages*.
>
>> Is Champ still around here?
>
>I'm not sure; I think he pops in occasionally.
<three months later>
Very occassionally...
--
Champ
ZX10R (road), ZX10R (race; breaking), GPz750 turbo (classic) Hayabusa (touring)
To email me, neal at my domain should work.
date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 10:37:26 +0100
author: Champ
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